Summer in Italy has been on my bucket list for years. Back during the pandemic I started pinning a bunch of travel photos as a virtual vision board for motivation, and every time I stumbled upon the Amalfi Coast, I sighed in aspiration. It looked so dreamy and romantic to me. Four years later, my camera role is filled with similar images.
I am still very much jet lagged and processing this experience. There's so much to share. For now, I'll stick to the basics of what to know and give a little recap in hopes it will help anyone needing it.
Itinerary
This trip was a birthday gift from my husband (I am a lucky gal). He purchased airfare to and from Rome and gave it to me on my birthday. Off the back, I had to decide what to do with Rome being base. I had 8 days to work with and I very much wanted to experience la dolce vita and keep our itinerary light. I have every intention of going back. I didn't feel the itch to crowd too much in a week. We opted for 4 days on the Amalfi Coast and 4 days in Rome, 50/50. Since we flew into Rome intially, we had to take the Leonardo Express out of the Fiumicino airport to the Termini train station and get on a fast train to Naples. If I could do it again, I would fly into Naples and fly out of Rome. I highly recommend that to all as well.
Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast is absolutely magical. The sunset is etched into my mind forever. It was everything I thought it would be and more. We stayed in Praiano. It is adjacent to Positano without the crowds. In fact, the ultra popular One Fire Beach Club is actually in Praiano. That's how close the two towns are. If you look at the first photo, you'll see Positano in the distance. Praiano is also a 20 minute drive to Amalfi, which is the next town on the coast. The location was perfect for us. We prefer quaint and quiet.
All you really need to know about the coast is that it is cliffside and you can only arrive via ferry or vehicle. The road in and out of the Amalfi Coast is a narrow two way road spiraling along the Lattari mountains. This means, transportation and the logistics associated can be a pain. Traffic piles up very quickly. We hired a driver to pick us up at the train station in Naples and transfer us into town. On the way out, we hired a taxi to the port of Amalfi and took a ferry to Salerno and Salerno to Rome via train. The view by boat is a must see in my opinion. To move around the coast, one must walk up and down countless steps, take the bus, taxi (not cheap), ferry or rent a scooter. Walking from town to town is a matter of walking the same narrow road the cars utilize, not really wise as it's ultra tight, but can't say that I didn't see it happen.
Be sure to try sorbetto al limone, delizia al limone, and limoncello. The region is known for their lemons and they did not dissappoint. I had sorbet every, single, day. That's how much I loved it. There are many restaruants to choose from in Praiano. They are pricier compared to Rome, but it is what it is on the coast. We had a nice sunset dinner at Il Pino, lunch in a cave at Il Pirata and opted to stay close to our hotel for the rest of our meals. We tried Kasai, La Moressa (good pizzas) and La Posteria (I think they're owned by La Moressa too). For breakfast, we dined outside overlooking the sea at Gym Tonic's Carica Bar (pictured below). We also enjoyed an aperitivo here on our way back from the beach. If I could do it again, I'd rent a scooter for my entire stay. It would make dinner dates a lot more convenient and dry. 😅 The busses along the coast are extremely packed.
Car Service: Sorrento Limo
Ferry: Travelmar
Taxi: Praiano Taxi
Rome
The Eternal City was a delightful new experience for us. We truly didn't know what to expect from Rome. We travelled in late August and if you've watched social media videos like me, this is like the ultimate no-no to many. It's hot and it's Ferie time (when Romans go on vacation). Yes, it's hot and no, not everything is closed. For me the weather was like Las Vegas and Miami in one. It was hot and humid but the humidity was far less than the Amalfi Coast. Maybe the coast and all the steps humbled me for Rome?
For optimal walking comfort, we left the hotel before 10:00 AM and decided to walk back to the hotel for late lunch and a second shower. By the time we were hot and bothered, Villa Borghese provided shade and we knew a shower and AC were within reach. We made sure we booked a hotel with adequate air conditioning for this reason. That was important for us. We stayed in Parioli which is not exactly city center. I read plenty of forums suggesting not to do this as it can mean longer walks. I say... factor in what is important to you and what you want to do before booking a hotel. Rome is massive! There is plenty to see and do. Don't fall for all the jubilee construction being shown on social media either. It's not everywhere. We personally wanted to be in a residential area and away from the center crowds. We are healthy and able bodied, walking an hour or more wasn't a problem for us. We explored, stopped, shopped, and ate along the way. We experienced plenty on these long walks of ours. There's also no shortage of water in Rome. There are drinkable water fountains all over the city. Utilize them. I carried a small 8 ounce water bottle in a moon bag and filled it up at every fountain we saw. If you need to buy water, it's about 50 cents for a liter at the grocery store. Another reason why we wanted a hotel in a residential area. Grocery stores come in handy, especially on hot days. We did utilize Uber (only available in Rome) on some outings such as the Vatican. We didn't want to arrive hot or sweaty. The price was around 16-20 euros one way but again, we walked back. The Vatican was easily over an hour walk but with all the stops we made, it was a day well spent with gelato and granitas. If I could do it again, I would absolutely stay in Parioli again. I truly enjoyed being near the park (Villa Borghese).
Where we stayed: The Hoxton ↓
Language and Currency
If possible, learn some basic Italian phrases. Per favore (please), grazie (thank you), prego (come this way, pardon me and you're welcome - it holds multiple meanings) and maybe a question like, parla inglese (do you speak english)? There are plenty of English speakers in both cities but we found that some drivers, smaller eateries and shops did not speak much English at all. Spanish can be handy too. We found ourselves in multiple trilingual conversations throughout our stay. It was very kind and quite hilarious in hindsight. If all fails, use google translate or the equivalent. I tell you this because one morning at the hotel coffee bar a lady was trying to ask for a coffee with less caffeine in English... Let's just say the attendant could not comprehend the question and the lady became frustrated rather quickly.
As for currency, we ordered euros from our bank a month in advance. I highly reccomend this for the best exchange rate. They also bought back the leftover euros on the spot. Credit cards are widely accepted too. We only encountered one shop that did not take cards and one restrauant that did not accept American Express. Just be prepared with various payment options and double check your card international transaction fees.
Reservations
The first reservation I recommend making is your accommodation. Find out where you want to be and book your hotel or hotels first. The rest is really a matter of season and time of year. I bought Vatican Museum tickets from the museum's direct website about 50 days in advance because it was peak summer time and I wanted the earliest slot available. Just do your research for each attraction. A quick search online and you'll also find some restaurants have online reservations. I made meal reservations in each city upon our arrival. You'll notice that many places only take reservations up to two weeks in advance anyway. Don't stress it too much. The hardest reservation to attain was for The Court Rome. They have limited time slots available in 2 hour increments and can only be booked a week in advance. It's very cutesy and demure in my opinion. The sunset over the colosseum is breathtaking, photos do not do it justice.
Clothing
As for clothing, it is hot and humid during the summer. Keep it light and airy. Cotton and linen worked well for us. I pressed and steamed our clothing before packing it. I find that using a garment bag inside my luggage to be a decent way of minimizing wrinkles along the way. Both hotels had ironing/steaming options available. I don't mind ironing when needed. If ironing is a no go for you, I don't have an alternative. I was happy and fresh in linen. Remember to factor in dress codes as well. Churches in Italy want shoulders and knees covered. My two cents, abide by the rules. Pack a shawl (or two) and take it off as soon as you exit.
Other Useful Tips
For communication purposes, consider downloading WhatsApp before hand. Our hotel in Praiano and the car services we hired both contacted us this way. It came in clutch when our flight was delayed and we needed to reach them ASAP. When in Rome, there are food delivery apps. We used one called Glovo during a random and sudden thunderstorm. Not necessarily vital to know but convenient if needed. As for train tickets, download the Trenitalia App. There was no need to validate tickets purchased on the app. They simply scanned the QR code and done. If the app doesn't work or gives you an error while using in the US, try turning off wifi. It only worked for me off wifi. I also want to note that it is law for foreigners to carry their passport in Italy. We were never approached or asked for them, but someone at the vatican was thrown off by this. You will need your ticket and passport when entering the museum.
Ok, I think that's it for now. Italy was truly a dream come true. If it's on your bucket list, I hope you too get to experience it first hand very, very soon.
Ciao, ciao amici. Until we meet again. ♡
Xx Dee
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